Wednesday 24 June 2009: Dunbeath to John O'Groats and back to Dunbeath

I awoke at 4:00 to a very heavy mist. Everything was wet and it was very cold. I retreated to my sleeping bag and listened to my iPod. I got up at 4:35 and was away by 5:15. It was good being able to leave everything in the tent. I fitted lights; there was very poor visibility. Fortunately there was hardly any traffic. I wasn't sure whether it was simply the sea mist I'd seen on previous days or low cloud. (When I returned later in the day the campsite owner told me that such mists were typical of the present anti-cyclonic weather system). It was very cold so I had my snood covering my ears and a cap over that: I didn't feel my cap blow off on the first descent!

I left the A9 for the A99, then at Lybster I had to decide whether to take my country route or stick to the A99. I chose the latter as I wouldn't see anything in the mist anyway. At Wick I looked for a cafe but couldn't find one (one of the problems with early morning starts is the lack of cafes; I seem to visit most towns with everything closed). There was a Tesco where I picked up breakfast stuff but it was still too early for their cafe to be open.

Although it wasn’t really raining the mist/low cloud made me fairly damp. I stopped to take a few photos but they were pretty dismal (though I was able to improve them with Photoshop.



When I finally crested the final ridge before John O’Groats instead of the iconic view of the Orkneys all I saw was mist!

I rolled into the village and took the usual photos: the boarded-up hotel; start stop line; the journey's end cafe where "End to Enders" can ‘register’ their arrival (it was closed but I’m not the ‘registering’ type)); the harbour etc. I put on my pink Breast Cancer Haven charity T-shirt for a photo. Then I went into the gift shop with a Costa cafe where I celebrated with a large Americano with an extra shot and a vanilla slice (I know how to enjoy myself!). I followed this with a hot chocolate, topped with cream, and a chocolate éclair.

Most LEJOGers are disappointed by the place. It's easy to see why but it was exactly as I expected and to be honest I would rather it like it is than some sort of theme park. I rather liked the way no one took a blind bit of notice of me. The only disappointment I had was not seeing the view of the Orkneys. I saw the photographers sign but it was too early for him (or her); not that I’d have shelled out.

Down at the harbour there were a couple of cyclists who I assumed must be LEJOGers but they were a Danish couple who were 2400km into ride along the North Sea route. They'd just discovered there was no ferry to take them on the next leg so they were deciding what to do. Cycling back to Aberdeen seemed to be favourite.

Statistics

I’d reached John O'Groats at 9:25 on the 14th day of cycling.

Distance 60.69 km (37.7 miles)
Time 3 hours: 24 minutes: 35 seconds
Average Speed 17.8 km/hour
Maximum Speed 42.9 km/hour

Distance from Lands End 1569.0 km (975 miles)
Total Time cycling 99hr:32min



I made a few phone calls to say that I’d made it, sent a postcard to my grandson and started the journey back to Dunbeath. I decided to use the "quiet" route I'd planned to arrive on. It was still misty but visibility was much improved and it wasn’t nearly as wet. I stopped to take a photo; nowhere to lean the bike so I gently laid it on its side; stepped back and put both feet into a muddy ditch. I squelched for quite a while (and I'd left the sealskins in the tent!).

The road was mostly narrow with passing places. I took it slow and loved it. It was very desolate in places, hardly any cars; occasional farmsteads, some parts forested others grouse moor. Some of the areas with farms reminded me of Tilbury marshes!

At 12:45 I stopped to eat the food I'd bought for breakfast back in Wick. A handy picnic table overlooking the lake at Watten, watching people fishing from boats. Beef baquette and roll.

Shortly afterwards I reached 1000 miles (1600km) since Lands End.

I came across some cairns beside the road: "the Grey Cairns of Camster", which date from 3500 BC. Looked fascinating and I should really have gone across the wooden walkways to have a look but I was enjoying the ride too much and didn't want to interrupt it. (http://www.mysteriousbritain.co.uk/scotland/caithness/ancient-sites/the-grey-cairns-of-camster.html).

I reached the A99 and then the A9. I was going like the clappers; nice to be unloaded. Found my cap! Then just before the campsite I saw the cafe which the guy in Brora had said was "the best in Scotland"; don't know about that but it was a damn fine café. Home-made cakes; I had a date slice and took another for tomorrow.

An excellent days cycling.

Cooked the same meal as last night and finished up the bottle of wine. Went for a walk down to the sea and took some photos; quick one in the pub on the way back. Another group of cyclists doing LEJOG (supported) for a hospice had arrived.

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Campsite: 2nd night at Inver Caravan Park, Houstry Road, Dunbeath. Excellent site. Excellent facilities, nice touches. £4

Statistics
Distance 123.34 km (76.6 miles)
Time 7 hours: 32 minutes: 19 seconds
Average Speed 16.7 km/hour
Maximum Speed 55 .7 km/hour
Distance from Lands End 1631.6 km
Total Time cycling 103.42