I picked up my route maps for the journey to John O'Groats. At the last minute I tore more pages out of the road atlas covering an alternative route back, should I decide to do it on the bike. (I'd been thinking about it on the way up, though it still seemed a remote possibility.
The weather forecast was not brilliant (rain starting soon after seven and getting worse by 10, would ease in
the afternoon). I think Krysia thought I was a bit daft setting off when I knew it was going to rain but I didn't feel I could delay and anyway who knew what the day after that held.
So, up at about 5:30, sorted out some online banking and had breakfast. The bike was already packed and ready to go and I was off by 6:50. It was overcast but fine; however, it started raining soon after seven on cue. But it then eased off and I had a pleasant run through to Skipton (via Keighley -- I thought I'd give my usual route across the hills a miss). Commuter traffic started to build up but it was still pretty good. I continued through Grassington and Kettlewell and turned left and headed up the hill towards Fleet Moss just as the rain started in earnest at about 9:30. Persistent rain, which got worse as I approached the top. Despite this I was really
enjoying the lower slopes. There was a strong wind from the south at the top and driving rain. Visibility wasn't very good; photos were a waste of time and anyway the camera got wet. Not the best conditions for my first ascent of Fleet Moss.
There were a few cars, headlights on and driving very cautiously. It seemed to cheer them up to see a wet bedraggled cyclist struggling up the hill. Or perhaps they were sympathetic smiles but they looked more like smirks to me! I didn't hang around at the top, though I did try a couple of photos. I was surprised at
how steep the downhill was. The wind was behind me, too, and I was soon going pretty fast with the rain stinging my eyes and a very wet road. I could have gone faster (and I mean just by coasting) but common sense prevailed and I braked. When I got to Hawes I was a bit alarmed to see that my maximum speed was 78.9 km/hour (over 49 mph) nearly as fast as I've ever been. I must revisit this road in better conditions. I'm not sure I got my risk assessment right though as I wasn't wearing my helmet (or maybe risk compensation was why I braked!)
I arrived in Hawes at 11:15 and I was cold to the core. I parked the bike in a covered alleyway, wrung out some clothes, (including my only fleece because I'd put my Gore Tex top on too late) put on my cycling longs and went in search of a cafe. There were several, but none looked very inviting. I chose a fish and chip cafe. Varnished pine 'pews'. Ordered a "haddock special" (haddock, chips and mushy peas, tea and bread). I was the only customer but there were two waiters. Fish and chips were good though. (Let down by very weak tea in a stainless steel teapot which wouldn't pour). Unfortunately I had to rush the meal because I remembered I’d left my bar bag with camera, iPod etc on the bike. As I got up I saw the seat cushion which had been a delicate shade of pale blue was now soaking wet from my (very wet) padded shorts. I picked up the bar bag but I wasn't ready to set off because I was still freezing so I looked for another cafe, where I had leek and potato soup and Horlicks. I seemed to get colder. It was still raining.
Not very impressed with Hawes; perhaps it's better when it's not raining. I began to regret leaving my second fleece at home.
I set off again at about 1 p.m. taking the A464, heading west. With the wind and rain from my left it seemed a long way before the B road to Appleby-in-Westmorland. The A464 undulated a bit but was a lot less busy than I had expected. The B road headed north so the wind/rain was more behind me.
When I was in Hawes I thought it might be brightening up as there was a watery sun through the clouds at times but the rain didn't let up. At least I was warming up peddling. Not a bad road, undulated but not very busy. Went into a campsite at Kirkby Stephen, shortly after 2:30.
Still a bit of rain about but there was a nice lean-to with picnic tables close to the area set aside for tents. I decided to shower before putting the tent up. Discovered a laundry so spun and tumble dried my wet clothes.
I put the tent together inside the lean-to and quickly put it up outside. The only other tent belonged to a woman walking the coast-to-coast with her dog (or rather some of it - the route, not the dog-as this was the last day). The lean-to was a godsend; I brewed up coffee and drank it with some malt loaf while I read the paper; later I cooked pasta and pesto with onions. The rain st
opped about six, blue sky and sun for a while but clouds kept coming; still, it didn't rain again during the evening. Went to the pub at 7:45; walked into Kirkby Stephen, rather than the pub round the corner. Seemed a nice town; certainly left a better impression than Hawes. A couple of pints of Dent Brewery Aviator and then back to the campsite. The road signs had distances in miles and furlongs! 
Despite the rain this had been a fairly easy day. One of the shortest but included what was probably the most gruelling hill (and highest at 567m). Quite something in driving rain. If it hadn't been for the weather (and I hadn't got so cold) I wouldn't have stayed so long in Hawes and would probably have gone through to Appleby, at least. Having said that I was conscious of keeping to my shorter days policy. It was a good day and I felt very relaxed. I felt noticeably stronger than when I first set off, a week ago. The weather forecast looked better for the next few days.
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Campsite: Pennine View Caravan Park, Station Road, Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria , CA17 4SZ . £7.00. Good facilities. Perfect for a wet cyclist.
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