I got onto the A road leading to the A9. There was a cycle path; one of those useless ones that has a "Give Way" sign at every field entrance or even house entrance so I didn't bother. At some roadworks I got onto it because it avoided the traffic lights and stayed on it because it moved away from the road and became quite pleasant. In fact, it led to a similar one alongside the A9; a nice path through the woods.
Shortly before the bridge across Beauly Firth the track went off to the side through a graffitied tunnel then onto a cycle track alongside the carriageway over the bridge. The road into Inverness was very busy even at 6:30. After the bridge there was a signed cycle route into the city centre. I followed it until I couldn't see which exit at a roundabout. I faffed around for a short while and headed too far east. Then I found a river and crossed it and headed for the city centre along normal roads where I picked up the cycle route again as I got to the pedestrian precinct, which was presumably the city centre. I waved a guy with a dead pig across is shoulders to cross in front of me; as I swerved right to ride behind him I nearly knocked another cyclist off his bike as he was overtaking me. The pig carrying guy thought it was hysterical; I think the cyclist was still asleep.
I was hoping to see a greasy spoon but nothing seemed to be open so I didn't stop. I carried on following "Route 1". Stopped at Tesco's, close to the A9, for breakfast stuff.
I decided to carry on following Route 1 (also labelled "Route 7") which I didn’t bother checking, but just assumed would take me in the right direction. I decided against the A9, which was busy but not as busy as last night although it was a dual carriageway.
The route kept heading east rather than south and I started to get apprehensive, especially as it took me up a number of fairly tough hills. I finally dug out a Sustrans map covering the whole UK and found Route 1 went to Aberdeen, but fortunately Route 7 was going my way. I delayed breakfast until after the two routes diverged. Route 7 started to head south then gradually went east towards the A9. This deviation took me several miles out of my way and was very hilly; in retrospect I think I would have been far better leaving Inverness on the A9 then joining Route 7 later.
Shortly after the routes separated I came across the Clava Cairns. ("The Prehistoric Burial Cairns of Balnuaran of Clava"). There are three burial cairns "within a ring of large containing boulders". I stopped there for breakfast (half baguette with cheese and tomato and half with banana; yoghurt, almond croissant, apple and hot chocolate fudge) sitting on a tree stump. Very peaceful. Before the cairns, I'd passed through Culloden but I was still not completely certain I was on the right route. I was daft not to stop and see the battlefield and visitor centre.
After breakfast it was more steep hills. Going up one hill I could hear (and see in the mirror) a group of four cycle tourers behind me. They seemed to be competing to overtake me! One did -- built like a brick shit house, enormous muscular legs arms and torso -- said hello, stood on his pedals and whooshed away. Then another. Third came up fairly close behind but I was picking up speed as breakfast kicked in and he dropped right back. After another kilometre or so he drew alongside and we had a chat for a while, then he pulled ahead. The fourth was nowhere to be seen. Further up the hill they stopped and I had a chat with them . Army guys in their 20s and 30s; bloody fit. They were waiting for two others not one. Going to Fife. I carried on.
Shortly afterwards I saw very close up what I thought could only be an eagle. Took a photo, still don't know if it was.
The five guys passed me again just as the track joined the A9. Didn't see them again, after that. It continued with more hills; don't know why I was surprised, this is the Cairngorms. I got very tired, sleepy even; worried I'd nod off when coasting. I stopped at a shop, not sure where it was, could have been Tomatin or possibly after that. Bought a Pepsi for the caffiene, Bacon Sarni and a Mars bar. Then into a cafe for an espresso, which was crap so I had a caffetier as well. Soon felt much better.
The route was mainly on minor roads close to the A9 but occasionally was a track right beside it. On one such section I came to a sign, which said ‘Slochd Summit’ and was at 1328ft (405m). I was well aware I’d gone up a lot of hills but I’d been down a few too and hadn’t appreciated I’d been steadily climbing 400m since Inverness. The road atlas was fine for finding my way but didn’t tell me what to expect!
At Aviemore, which I reached at about 17:00, I decided to stop even though I'd got nowhere near as far as I wanted. Aviemore looked okay, too; lively, with bars, restaurants, outdoor shops and cafes etc. Not quite as tacky as I was expecting. Saw signs to tourist information so stopped at what seemed like the right building (there was even a sign on the building saying "tourist information"). Went in and realised it was a "super-lavatory" with showers etc. The attendant told me there were two campsites one at the end of the strip which is Aviemore the other a few miles further on. She said the second was uphill but more importantly was in the middle of nowhere. I plumped for the first because I fancied a drink in Aviemore. First of all I went to the wrong one (a caravan site) but eventually found the right one behind an Italian restaurant.
Had a long tortured conversation at reception with a guy who seemed to be a bit of a jobsworth. Did he have space for one tent? Had I booked? He did have one which he’d let me have for £18 instead of £20 but he couldn't let me have have it any cheaper because someone else might turn. This took 10 minutes; he took me to the pitch, another 10 minutes, while he explained how to access the facilities. He was really ok, and quite helpful, just a bit verbose; I think he was probably just thinking out loud and felt £18 was a bit of a rip off for one bloke with a tiny tent but couldn’t see a way round it. Spent a while telling me about the various eating places. I said what about the Italian, next door; he waxed lyrical but said I'd have to book. I did just that before going into town. Bought some chain oil and lip balm then went for a coffee in a bar (which I noticed had no draught beer). After that I went to a hotel lounge bar for a pre-dinner drink. No hand pulled but Belhaven beer again. More "deliciously smooth honey coloured beer". Still crap. But it was a good bar. Nice and lively -- I think I've been missing that. England were playing Sweden on TV who had just equalised, which raised a mild cheer, though no one was taking much notice.
After retrieving my phone, which I had put on charge in the shower room, I headed for the restaurant where I went for the £12.95 buffet which seemed like a sensible choice for a hungry cyclist. Started with a plate of cold meat and salads; four slices of mixed pizzas with salad; more pizza; four different pastas; back to the pizzas and finally tiramisu to die for. Complemented it with two large glasses of red wine and a double espresso. Bloody marvellous but I was full to bursting. Would I get up tomorrow; anyway I was due a lie in. Cost £30 including tip.
It had been a very slow day (13.5 km/hour) mainly because of all the faffing around on Route 1/Route 7 after Inverness and going fairly slowly on the other tracks. Aviemore made up for it though.
Campsite: Aviemore Hotel/Motel. Self Catering.Caravan. Campsite and
Restaurant. Good facilities. Expensive for small tent, but a popular destination so only to be expected. Good location for town. Restaurant on complex. £18.00Statistics
Distance 93.21 km (57.9 miles)
Time 6 hours: 53 minutes: 00 seconds
Average Speed 13.5 km/hour
Maximum Speed ? km/hour
Distance from Lands End 1852.1 km
Total Time cycling 118:34
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