After Staley more ups and downs and then what seemed like a long fast downhill ride on the wet and winding road into Blanchard (looking at the map afterwards the downhill was actually relatively minor compared with all the uphills I'd been on and the earlier “ups and downs” were predominantly up!).
After Blanchard it was more serious climbing and now onto fairly isolated moorland. Very quiet, narrow roads with massive views in every direction. My favourite s
ort of cycling country; similar, though even more isolated, to the Pennine moors on the West Yorkshire/Lancashire borders where I regularly cycle. I'm used to seeing curlews on the West Yorkshire moors but the ones here seemed far more excitable. There were Oystercatchers too (and others I didn't recognise). They would fly into the air as I approached making loads of noise and then land further on; I assumed they were trying to attract me away from their nests. I spent ages trying to get some decent photos, but I was too slow.
The road continued up to 500m. In fact, looking at the profile afterwards I had been climbing for the last 22 km from about 70 m (with a few quite significant downhill sections too). I hadn't realised just how wild the Pennines in Northumberland were; not only had the ride down through the Cairngorms more than justified cycling back from John O'Groats but this did too.
It then dropped 300m in the 5km to Stanhope. A fantastic wide ford. There was then an horrendous 17% hill as I went back up to 400m, back down to 280m then back to over 500m again. I was enjoying this but it was hard work! I had lunch (bacon sarny, cherries, apple, banana and Coke) at the top of a hill in the hope that it would give my legs a chance to clear the lactic acid when I got going again before the next hill. I'd done nearly 72km but my average speed was less than 12 km per hour. I began to think I might not make Haworth tomorrow.
It was then a 20km mostly downhill (but with a few sharp ups) to Barnard Castle some 350m below. Quite a large place and it was very busy. I was going to stop for a coffee but not seeing one in my brief wander round decided to crack on. Unfortunately, the signs were confusing and I picked the wrong road. I knew quite soon I had but couldn't be bothered to turn round. I ended up hitting the A66 too far east. It was busy but okay. After about 4km I turned left on the road up to the Yorkshire border at Arndale Head. It started steep and then got steeper. It would again take me up to over 500m. This was another superb climb through the forest (The Stang) but I was too tired to properly appreciate it. I struggled up one very steep section (with ">>" I noted later). I was really struggling and saw just ahead another sign saying 14%; my will power just went and I found myself -- almost involuntarily -- getting off the bike and pushing. The first time in the whole trip, in fact in any tour I've ever done. It wasn't the worst hill I’d gone up by a long chalk but it had come at the end of a very hard day. I actually puffed and panted more pushing the loaded bike than riding it. I think it's as much, if not more, a mental rather than physical thing. After 100 yards or so it started to get less steep and I rode across the border into North Yorkshire.
It was then downhill to Arkle Beck, a short 70m climb (which I managed fine) and it was downhill all the way to Reeth. I know Reeth reasonably well but I'd never seen a campsite. There was one marked on my map so I asked a local who said there was no campsite in the village. So I continued down the hill and stopped at a small shop where I learnt there was one almost across the road. As the only food I had on me was one banana I thought it best to stock up with a few basic supplies to get me through to breakfast tomorrow.
A very amenable campsite owner (who I later saw in the pub) donated the fe
e to my charity. Fairly small field but good facilities and a friendly atmosphere. After putting up the tent and showering I walked back to the top of the village and went to the Black Bull as recommended by the campsite owner. I had haddock, chips and mushy peas washed down with a couple of pints of Theakston's Best (Ah to be back in Yorkshire). Ni
ce pub.Today, for the first time, my knees had started to hurt (on that last hill up to the Yorkshire border). Still, they have held up well. This had seemed by far the hilliest day of the trip (and the slowest average). In fact checking afterwards I found I had climbed 2607m, which was not as much as I'd done from Aviemore to Kinross (2830m) but it was far steeper. Also, there were long uphill sections unlike some of the other hilly days where there was far more undulation and consequently the opportunity for momentum to assist.
It's amazing just how critical nutrition is. If everything is right I can sail up hills but once I am short of energy even gentle hills feel steep. Today it was tough not just because of the hills but also because I don't think I ate often enough. I often go down to 5k/h on steep hills, occasionally even 4k/h; on that final hill I seem to spend most of it at 3.3k/h! Any slower and I'd fall off!
Campsite: Orchard caravan park, Reeth. Good facilities. Small friendly site, excellent. £5.00.
Statistics
Distance 120.58 km (74.9 miles)
Time 9 hours: 40 minutes: 49 seconds
Average Speed 12.4 km/hour
Maximum Speed 58.4 km/hour
Distance from Lands End 2364.1 km
Total Time cycling 152:52
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