Tuesday 23 June 2009: Dingwall to Dunbeath

Woke up at 4:10 and left at 5:10. Followed signs for Alness. When I got to the A9 I realised I'd gone off my planned route (the minor road going parallel to the A862 and A9 through Mountgerald and Ardullie) but I wasn't going to backtrack and anyway it was really quiet on the A9. I had another chance at Alness to get back on the planned route across country to Bonar Bridge but I decided to stay with the A9. The road was still quiet with just a few lorries.

After about 10 K. there was a sign "John O'Groats 104M", the first I'd seen. I was doing really well; flat road good surface, occasionally convoy of perhaps six vehicles but often nothing in sight.When I got up the sun was already out, the sky mainly blue; best start to the day since before Haworth. Early on, before about 8, the lighting was superb. Very clear with the lowish sun on distant clouds. The air felt fresh. A good morning to be out on a bike.

I started to tire after about 40 K. but wanted to get to the Dornoch Firth Bridge before I stopped for breakfast. Because I was enjoying the ride I often delayed breakfast too long; consequently I then found it hard going and today the slight gradient before the bridge was a bit of a grind. I enjoyed the bridge though and then looked for a place to eat. Several lay-bys but no seating. Eventually stopped at 8:20 in the entrance to a quarry where I sat on a rock and had a very relaxing breakfast.

At about 10:45 Mr Fixed Tarp caught me up while I was having a drink. Last night he’d told me he was being picked up at John O'Groats today. He'd seen the sign saying 104 miles and it was further than he thought. His trip was planned in detail with each campsite booked in advance. When he left me he went like a bat out of hell. I followed him on the undulating road as he quickly pulled away. Every ascent he was up on the pedals; every descent his legs were pumping like dervishes. He was half a mile ahead in no time. Awesome.

I stopped at a cafe in Brora. Nice place. Got talking to a guy on the next table who said the best cafe in Scotland is at Dunbeath behind some croft place. The cafe owner who sounded like Janet in Dr Finlay said "I don’t know how you dare say such a thing while drinking in my cafe", but I think she thought he might be right. This far north the accents seemed very mellow. The guy also suggested some alternative routes back from John O'Groats.

I was on a quiet stretch of road admiring the amazing view when I came across an enormous electronic sign saying 'Don't take drugs and drive'; the last place I'd have expected it. What goes on up here? But then not so far away there was a recovery vehicle rescuing an enormous boat from a roadside ditch.

All along the coast there was a sea mist. Sometimes just out to sea but sometimes coming inland especially at estuaries. When it did, it became very cold but otherwise the sun was very warm.

After Brora it started to get a bit more hilly with the road going along the clifftop then going down and backup to cross every river mouth. The big ones were Helmsdale and Berriedale. I found Helmsdale the toughest as it seemed very long.

I was overtaken by two cyclists on lightweight road bikes as I was going up Helmsdale, then when I stopped to take some photos a third went by. I followed him to the top of the hill where he pulled into a layby to join up with the others. I pulled in too. They were doing a supported LEJOG and were aiming to finish tomorrow too (13 days). They were heading for the campsite at Dunbeath where they would meet up with their companions in a camper van. I was aiming for Dunbeath, too, as it seemed just the right distance from John O'Groats to go there and back tomorrow.

Berriedale was steeper but shorter and somehow more interesting; much less of a drag (or was it just that the café stop refuelling was just kicking in).

At Dunbeath I stopped at the local shop for supplies. I bought enough for two nights so was able to buy a full bottle of wine.

At the campsite I was greeted with a cup of tea by the LEJOGers. They asked where I was catching the train back. Said I hadn't decided but would be going at least as far as Dingwall but would probably carry on perhaps as far as Edinburgh or maybe all the way (there, I'd said it!). They clearly thought I was mad and I guess that being so fixed on John O'Groats as their goal the idea of carrying on probably didn't appeal. From being a thought which had crossed my mind as I left home it had gradually firmed up especially since Glasgow. Also, I wasn't really ready to finish it yet. I was still reluctant to say I was definitely going all the way back home probably because it would seem like a failure if I had not made it but in my heart of hearts I knew by now that I probably would even though it would be another 500 miles.

This was my favourite campsite of the whole trip. No-frills but nice touches (a free pen -- and mine had just packed up! -- shower gel and shampoo); very clean toilet block; friendly, helpful proprietor and all for £4 a night. Nice and quiet with views across the sea. Several cyclists (all doing LEJOG).

Pub for a couple of pints (no hand pulled so it was Guinness again) then back to the site for a meal of kidney beans, leeks, onions, chilli, peas, new potatoes and half the bottle of Chilean Merlot. Mist gone, warm sun, felt good and just a little mellow.

Campsite: Inver Caravan Park, Houstry Road, Dunbeath. First class site. Best for a 2 night stop too! Excellent facilities, nice touches. £4


Statistics
Distance 119.59 km (74.3 miles)
Time 7 hours: 46 minutes: 23 seconds
Average Speed 15.3 km/hour
Maximum Speed 57.7 km/hour
Distance from Lands End 1508.3 km
Total Time cycling 96:05